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#11 |
Capitaine
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,420
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cranxworz,
thank you very much for taking us through the trouble-shooting and deduction processes in such detail. thank you for sharing this :-)
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2003 C5 2.0 2005 C4 1.6 (dad's) 2006 C5 2.0 2010 C5 2.0 WiFi 2013 DS 5 1.6THP WiFi 2015 C4 Cactus 1.2 2016 (2014) C4 Picasso 1.6 e-HDi |
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#12 |
Regular
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 210
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ATF is gearbox oil? I have no clue how to check.
Now I only top up 1L engine oil about every 2500 km. Recently, intermittent ESP / ASR fault. Drove to Antz and they found my right rear abs sensor faulty which issue lots of warning alerts. They told me quite recently a few drivers also have this. Then I also realised my radiator fan not running at high speed, low speed ok. A bit used to during start engine, will like to hear the high speed fan before moving off. So got it changed even though I replaced that at Antz 1 Yr ago. They also find it puzzled the fan is running like the same speed even though their diag kit activated it to go high. Sent from my ALP-L29 using Tapatalk
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Regards Vincent /--------------------- 2000 Nissan Pulsar 2003 Renault Kangoo 2005 Hyundai Matrix 2011 Citroen C4 Grand Picasso! |
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#13 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 6
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Checking the ATF is easy, but for some, they may think it is messy and 'dirty'.
You may need an 8mm square socket driver. For AL4. The drain plug is located at bottom beside the right hand side (viewed from front) wheel, and is within arm reach (Easier to just crawl under LOL) The gearbox need to be warm to at least 70 degree. What I usually do is drive around a few KM from cold start. put on a pair of rubber gloves and crawl under the chassis and remove the drain plug. Note. The ATF must be at least 70 degree, for me after a short drive the ATF is hot, almost scalding hot, and you can never get an accurate level when oil is cold and level is always high when cold. 1. The ATF if at correct level should fast drip 2. If Over filled. The ATF will flow out like when you're doing an engine oil drain To top up, or to make sure the ATF is at the right level, just pour .5 liter ATF, let engine warm. Run through all gears.. Remove drain plug. Oil should flow and once it reaches the correct level, will start to trickle, then fast dripping. This is when I will quickly re-install the drain plug. Note. There are 2 screw at the drain plug. the one outside is usually an 8mm square socket (Square as in four corners, can buy from sites like taopao or amazon) After removing thr drain plug. There is another 8mm hex (Allan key bolt) holding the level tube. Hence, for ATF change. You need to remove that tube using the 8mm hex socket. Imagine. The tube sticking inside the oil sump. That is the leveler. Note that ATF should and must always be clean. Not like engine oil will turn black. Hence, if you pour in red colored ATF, after 20K drive, should still come out red (Maybe brownish red), if oil drain is black.. then that could suggest some bad overheating inside the gearbox. |
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#14 |
Regular
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 210
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Sounds complicated. Likely will leave it to my mechanic. Ahaha.
Mine is 2011 C4GP. Was evaluating to extend or get replacement. Quite disappointed with the new 5008 and C4 Spacetourer in SG actually. Was evaluating on Renault Grand Scenic Sent from my ALP-L29 using Tapatalk
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Regards Vincent /--------------------- 2000 Nissan Pulsar 2003 Renault Kangoo 2005 Hyundai Matrix 2011 Citroen C4 Grand Picasso! |
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#15 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 6
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Hi Vincenttanpt. Yes, ATF is gearbox oil.
Maybe you want to take a look here for the ESP fault? http://c4owners.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2.205 Unless if I have deep pocket, I will also try to give the ABS sensor a good spray of contact or brake cleaner, imo. Locating and finding ways to reach the senor can be a challenge, but that's where we learn from there. Our car are really very robust, and only in Singapore that we need to scrap once it reaches 10 years. In other country, these cars can run for over 200K miles (over 300K KM) LOL!! Quote:
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#16 |
Regular
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 210
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Haha. Yesterday change the sensor liao. Already hit 160k on my 7th Yr.
Sent from my ALP-L29 using Tapatalk
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Regards Vincent /--------------------- 2000 Nissan Pulsar 2003 Renault Kangoo 2005 Hyundai Matrix 2011 Citroen C4 Grand Picasso! |
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#17 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 6
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Of course. Mechanics are indispensable. I just got lucky like for the case of the Fan and heating issue, turn out, was a sensor contact fault, but if it were to be the thermostat fault, then definitely need to send to workshop for replacement, as removing and installing it is easy, but coolant draining and burping is a complicated process, and unless if things can be fix within arm or tool reach. I won't want to touch anything LOL!!.. and for this reason, I will only buy 8 years old used cars or brand new cars. For old cars, if it get really bad. Just scrap. For new, can lean on warranty.
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#18 | |
Connoisseur
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 875
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#19 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 6
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To clarify. after checking back on the invoices. The gold colored ATF is Mobil ATF 4HP20(Gold) which replaces the Esso LT71141 (Red). Hence, correct oil used. But level. well, a lot more came out of my transmission. Anyway.
Repair bills can be eye watering, and there are really to re course for botch job, but for some, even with deep pocket, they would rather spend the money on a new Macbook or nice iCE, and surely nobody enjoy having their car towed to a workshop after paying thousands. A very simple overfilling of ATF can cause over heating, and clutch slipping (like dragging a table across the floor), sensor failure. and the more obvious oil leak. So. We normally will leave these complicated stuff to an expert, and people knows. Pay peanut, get monkey. Hence, we pay for meat? Looking back at some past repair done by the previous owner of my current car. Starting with an Overhual of the gear box by workshop A, and then rework by workshop B. Really no recourse, LL suck thumb.. ![]() Again. Simple components like the drive belt. Which technically have been replaced 3 times in 2 years, with the last one replaced by me as it broke midway through a drive. Initial visual inspection suggest nothing. Belt is all clean, and looks new. But it have been replace by 2 workshop? and last DIY (Seriously easy job). and why it broke prematurely?. A seized alternator pulley, this was never replace by the previous 2 workshop, and if the pulley is not replaced, will cause the car to idle poorly when aircon is turn on, noisy idling, vibration etc.. Imagine the repair potential the alternator pulley can give to a mechanic?? LOL!!!!! ![]() |
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